October

With heavy hearts, we left Sri Lanka. It had been 3 weeks of good times and beautiful places - the perfect remedy for 6 exhausting months in India but it was time to move on to our next country. Thailand. Now I realise we have already given you a sneak peek into our time in Bangkok by way of my wardrobe week update but we haven't really said anything about our two week jaunt in Thailand. Before I go on, I need to give a mention out to Sheena Beena a new and welcome contributor to the website (Graham's parents you are still our most active contributors for which we are ever grateful for). Happy to have opened your eyes to a saggy bum, low crotch trouser look. As a long time lover of the MC hammer pant I'm always delighted to welcome new fans to the fold.

So back to Bangkok or Bangers as Graham and I renamed it. Graham's friend Nute had very kindly given us the keys to her flat whilst she was away in Europe which was quite simply, amazing. For eight glorious days (we ended up staying longer than planned because we loved it so much) we were non tourists, we were your average Joes hopping on and off the sky train, going to the cinema (Harry Potter - amaze balls) and wandering around super markets. That's right my friends, it's a sad but true fact that Graham and I spent much time in many, many different super markets just wandering around, mouths agape at the sheer volume of things we wanted to buy. After months of the 'if i could eat anything it would be...' game, suddenly there it all was right in front of our very eyes. Salt and vinegar crisps (in a variety of different versions), haribo in selections and flavours I have never even dreamed of before, cheese in all shapes and smells , waitrose stuff (not the basil and pine nut dip unfortunately - I checked) and most importantly... wine. Oh it was super exciting and kept us entertained for hours. Unfortunately as it is far cheaper to eat out in Thailand than it is to eat in, our initial excitement over cooking up a feast was short lived, however we continued to find excuses to visit a supermarket at least once a day. I am ashamed to admit it but we became those folk that you raise your eyebrows at in the supermarket queue when you see into their baskets or trolleys. Our typical basket consisted of the following: bottle of rose wine, 3 cans/bottles of beer, wine cooler alchopops (just to try because they were cheap) 2 types of haribo, cheetos/prawn crackers/salt and vinegar crisps/one of everything, cheese and bread. So shamed was I at one of the tills that I ran off and got a compensatory packet of cherry tomatoes just to have something that was vaguely healthy in there. It was great.

Having our own flat for a week or so meant that we could be human again. We were able empty our bags fully (on our last stint at Herbon we always kept things more or less packed in case we needed to make a quick getaway), wash all of our clothes and just sort ourselves out. As you know already, at this point I underwent a sizeable style crisis and shed a few clothing items that had seemed such a good idea to buy in India. Clearly having made space in my bag I was itching to fill in the gaps with some new things from the giant fashion sweetie shop that is Bangkok however Graham, seeing the slightly deranged look in my eye, pointed out that perhaps I should wait until we returned in November to buy anything new. I could see the sense in what he was saying, everything would get trashed and be done by the time we got home, but I still had a small stamp my feet tantrum and accused him of stifling my style creativity. Once that was out of my system and I saw the sense in his argument Graham and indulged in some rather exciting window shopping, chalking up a most wanted list for when we get back. Chatuchak market - OMG. That's right it gets a capital letter OMG. 35 acres of weekend shopping peppered with delicious eateries and achingly cool furniture stalls/bars complete with djs. We didn't know where to start this endless maze of everything you could ever want. We tried to take on a focused linear approach that sort of worked but it was tiring work. Definitely the most surreal moment was reaching the 'pet zone' where we found miniscule rabbits and squirrels dressed up in dresses, dogs with top hats, shoes and dinosaur outfits and cats with dip dyed fur (unfortunately you were not allowed to take photos). Totally bonkers and a little hilarious but equally sad so we jumped a few rows and refuge in the home/art zone. I was very good and left with market with only a new belt, a pair of converse high tops (to replace a pair that were more holes than shoes), a watch and a pair of denim shorts that came in at a total of under £10 so job well done on my part. I saw a lot more that I wanted, a lot, it's a little frightening. Needless to say I am chomping at the bit to get back there and destroy what is left of our travel budget.

After being in Bangkok for a few days Graham pointed out that we should probably make a plan of what to do next as Nute would be returning home in a few days and we had to leave Bangers at some point. It took some time to get me to lift my head up out of the sand and remove my fingers from my ears but eventually we agreed to move on up to Chiang Mai with a view to being across the border and into Laos within the week. In the taxi to the airport I sat, bottom lip proud, booing all the passing traffic returning to the city. Bangkok, you are my new city crush and I can't wait to see you again in November.

Cooking class, check, walking streets, check, daily massage, check. There were only two things left to do. Firstly, go and visit the temple on the hill and secondly, take advantage of some of those silly all day happy hour offers advertised around town. To get to the temple we hired a scooter and headed off up the one hill that overlooks Chiang Mai. At the top, rests Wat Suthep, a rather impressively adorned temple with a huge gold plated Chedi at its centre, some lovely mirrored tile work and hard to beat views of the town and surrounding countryside. Although a little overcrowded with fellow tourists it was a charming spot in which to enjoy the slightly cooler climate of the late afternoon and also it gave us a great excuse to hire a scooter for a bit. Ever since our first jaunt on the Andamans, Graham and I have been a little bit obsessed with scooter travel. (Graham by this point -at time of writing- has established which particular models he likes in Thailand, Laos and Vietnam, so far undecided in Cambodia). The old simple joys of the wind in your face/hair as you speed through the passing countryside is quite addictive. My parents should be pleased to know however that it's always safety first when it comes to Graham driving a scooter although I have to admit that on the way down from the temple I was a little frustrated at Graham's sensible speed after being passed by a fourth cyclist, then a lady on a scooter with 2 children and some luggage. Not exactly ride like the wind stuff but fun none the less.