And so I write this post on the morning of my final day in my 20s (when I actually finally get to post it I will be in my 30s) from a shady porch of our two storey bamboo hut, listening to the waves lapping against the beach and the soft phut phut of the local fishing boats heading out for the day. Well it beats a day in the office anyway. To give you the full picture I am also sat with
We arrived on Havelock Island 2 days ago from the most disappointing place so far, Port Blair. Graham and I forgot that the Andaman Islands were still a part of India and so had high expectations for quaint little seaside villages, leafy promenades and peace and quiet. Port Blair it turns out is in fact smellier and dirtier than Kolkata with the all the usual attributes of a standard Indian city or town: open sewers, mountainous piles of rubbish, peeping horns and throat clearing spitting men at every 5 paces. Needless to say we were delighted to be up and out to Havelock the following morning. Havelock, happily, is far nicer and considerably less smelly than Port Blair.The water is crystal clear, the beaches are intermittently cut by sweeping mangroves so everyone can have their own slice of white sandy beach and the litter is well, almost not there. Our hut is an 'eco lodge' which roughly translates as: made from bamboo and bits washed up in the sea, open air bathroom (first addition to the loo log) with cold shower and significant army of bugs, natural a/c (ie the breeze) and no TV. Actually it's lovely and very relaxing and the bugs seem to go about their business whilst you do you yours so all in all it is a happy co-existence and the perfect getaway. The only downside is there seems to have been a crackdown on alcohol so the closest thing we could get to a sunset cocktail or Kingfisher was a fresh lime and soda. However persistence prevailed and we did manage to sniff out the local wino shop (or tiny window with sturdy metal grating and a small letter box of a hole for all exchanges) in village no 1 yesterday so we have a small supply of 'Old Monk Rum' for evening time rum and cokes (or singular rum and coke as we are both total lightweights these days).
But I have skipped ahead massively as I have completely missed out leaving Palakol, the 18 hour train journey and Kolkata. On the night of our departure from Hebron, the water plant that was due to be
a cold towel over my shins. Even though I should be older and wiser at this point it seems I have still not learnt that the old 'slowly slowly catchy monkey' is the best tactic for tan building and have burnt myself to a crisp on day 2 of the holiday in the sun (Graham is also sat with a cold towel over his shoulders and a bright beacon of a nose that could land planes in a blizzard and he is even older so perhaps you never learn). One other thing the years haven't taught me - humility. After 4 days of delhi belly in Kolkata I am the slimmest I have been since I was 18 so gratuitous bikini shots to prove that age doesn't matter? You betcha. Try and make some of them look arty for total self indulgence? Why not.
And so to Kolkata. After Chennai and numerous people telling us how dirty and busy Kolkata was we were both a little unsure about what to expect. The reality was that it was dirty and busy however there were amazing buildings and huge green parklands in the centre (apparently due to the British flattening the original villages in 1758 so their cannons had a clear line of fire) which made it quite beautiful and a bit more chilled out. We did as we promised and went to McDonalds for our first food of freedom pretty much straight from the train and as expected it wasn't as good as we had hoped (or more accurately than I had hoped as Graham was more than happy with his Maharaja Mac and considered going back for seconds). After
finished 4 days after our arrival finally opened (a mere 12 weeks later). Of course, there was a mini ceremony, lots of clapping and photo taking so you can imagine how delighted Graham and I were to be the lucky ones to have the first sip of water from the new bore-well. In fact not just a sip but a whole glassful each, which when faced with an 18 hour train journey felt a bit like we were playing Russian roulette with our bowels. The kids were lined up to wave us off which turned into a weird royal family style handshaking final name testing frenzy and then we were off. The train was long but fine and I managed to limit the use of the toilet to 3 times over 18 hours which was a bonus. The only thing of note was that we were sharing our cabin with a man who was on his way home from the army for a months leave. He had come prepared for his 24 hour journey with absolutely nothing to do and so sat staring at us for much of the time. I was quickly relieved of all painful chat duties when it became clear that whenever I spoke 'he couldn't understand' what I was saying but had no issues when Graham then repeated it. After 5 attempts I admitted defeated, popped on the ipod and left Graham to fend for himself.
And that is us for the minute. By the time I get to post this (due to no internet here) it will need updating but I will try and keep it coming as we move around India. Its 9am, I have almost exactly 24 hours left of being in my 20s (I was born at 9.55am) so we are off for a swim in the sea and maybe a little read in the hammock on the beach.
Laters potaters. xx
P.S. Apologies for the delay. We had no internet coverage and then were hampered by a few technical issues so it has taken me about 4 days to update this and I am still not done. An update will follow shortly.
that the next few days were consumed with a healthy mixture of good old fashioned tourist sightseeing, an IPL 20/20 match and a fairly serious bout of Delhi belly. After 4 days we had witnessed Christopher Gayle carry his bat and score century against the Kolkata Knight Riders (off about 50 balls), we had laid about in the beautiful (litter free) gardens around the Victoria memorial and I had bought several pairs of enormous harem pants with crotches so low they hang at my ankles. Unfortunately we did not get to sample any local Bengali food as I could not eat however, my appetite is back now and we will make up for it when we return next week.
there has been progress nonetheless. When we return in June we hope to get back onboard with refreshed enthusiasm to take us up until our visa requires us to leave - that's the hope anyway. The kids have been doing exams so we have been trying not distract them from their studies although we need not have worried too much what with the giant 3 day Jesus fest going on in the middle of their playing field. Yes that's right 3 days and nights of terrible Jesus music and American style shouty sermons all in Telugu. Although Graham and I spent much of the weekend barricaded in our room the industrial sized sound system ensured that we didn't miss a single 'praise the lord'. When we did emerge, the kids tried to cover in us Jesus jewellery regardless of our protests so we took to skulking at the back playing angry birds on Graham's iphone and avoiding any attempts to coax us onto the dias (the local pronunciation of dais). There was a very real danger of being asked to speak and I'm not sure our lack
That's right folks today is 'd' day for the gramy train. A witching hour departure and a mere 18 hour train journey before we arrive in the hot (40*C) and smelly streets of Kolkata. We can't wait. First stop McDonalds for a McMaharajah burger and chips (we went online over 6 weeks ago to check the menu), second stop the Fairlawn hotel for a beer and bacardi breezer. That's how we roll people.
We will be in Kolkata for about 4 days sweating profusely and soaking up a bit of the Indian city life. We have got ourselves some tickets to an IPL twenty twenty cricket match on Saturday to see the Kolkata Knightriders which should be noisy and before that I fear there will be much mooching around the the botanical gardens and shopping bazaars. After 11 and bit weeks of being told where to sit, what to eat, where to go, where not to go, that we are too hot, that we are getting too much sun (the list is endless) Graham and I will be like teenagers (wishful thinking) on our first trip into town without the rentals. Who knows we may come back half drunk with our noses pierced and matching 'India Rocks' tattoos on our biceps.
India is our oyster for the next 7 weeks and hopefully we will be more active on the website during our travels (internet permitting). For now, here's a bit of a round up since our last post. Work on the project has improved and whilst progress has been slow
of enthusiasm for adding a 'hallelujah' to the end of every sentence would have gone down too well with the 1000 strong crowd. Indeed we might have been tempted to say something blasphemous and perhaps drop a JTFC bomb as a finale so laying low seemed like the best option all round.
Yesterday we got a small insight into what it is like to be a parent at Christmas who has worked hard to get the right present for their little darling to be told, in no uncertain terms, they were in fact wrong and need to get another to sort it (multiplied by 120). As we have been regularly badgered by the kids for 'one photo one photo' we thought we would surprise them with a copy of their 'one photo' (well two in fact) before we headed off. Now this may sound simple however it took us 3 days to sort the hundreds upon hundreds of images into individual files for each child before then choosing and refiling the winning poses for printing. Many many hours and rupees later we were happily patting ourselves on the back for a job well done, completely unaware of the chaotic tantrums that lay ahead. So it turns out that we chose the wrong 'one photo' for all
but 4 of the girls (who seemed happy with their lot). What followed was a mini riot of mini people demanding to be reshot (notice the manic strain on my face above after an hour of being proded although Jyothi was one of the 4 that said thank you and only had one photo so she got another one without question). It ended in me retreating to the boys and leaving Graham to fend for himself. We are a little apprehensive about giving the boys their photos this evening but they seem more interested in cricket so it should be less of a tussle (we hope).
So that's us I think. We will see you on the other side of our 18 hour train journey. My record so far is 9 hours without going to the loo on a train in India however I fear 18 hours is beyond my bladder's capacity. I will send Graham ahead to test the waters though. Good old G-man what a warrior.
Post us some comments. we have had 847 vistors so far which is great but give us some banter. xx
After 1.5 days of not eating due to extreme nausea (not eating rice 3 times a day is a totally alien concept here) Sagar insisted on calling in the cavalry in the form of his homeopathic doctor to fix Graham. Despite some valiant protests, Graham was force fed a small concoction of pills which were apparently trustworthy because 'they were from Germany and can cure cancer'. After a brief investigation it turned out they were in fact sugar drops so why they needed to come from Germany and how they cure cancer still remains a bit of mystery to us. Happily, Graham is better now and is an impressive 10 kilos lighter than when he arrived two months ago (not as good as me though, I have lost 14 kilos - winner!). As commented by regular reader Liam we are indeed more svelte versions of our rather portly post Christmas selves and have swapped our rounded paunches for visible rib cages (well almost) which makes the prospect of wearing a bikini on the Andamans a little less daunting (for Graham obviously).
We can now start an American style, clap your hands above your head countdown until we go away (9 days). Our mini getaway last week to Vishakhapatnam was a lovely little teaser for what lies ahead. It was just the two of us (thankfully) and we spent most of the time on the beach or in the bar. Having grown accustomed in the last few months to having a constant entourage of at least 10 noisy people (most of them under 5ft), walking along a near deserted beach (in Indian terms anyway)was a little
I promised I would be in brighter spirits the next time I posted a news update an indeed if we are to continue to 'taunt you from afar' then me ranting is probably not the best way to go about it (although you know I love a rant). See I have even put up a cheesy picture of us grinning to demonstrate our lighter mood intentions. So all I will say was last week was a shit week (sorry Graham's parents but it was) and both of us were left feeling quite deflated and at points, very angry about how the project is progressing (or not as the case might be). It was not helped by the fact Graham was also struck down once again with a severe case of runny bum although once he was over the worst this was at least the source of some comedy.
can't be choosers. We were both cheap dates as after 4 of the hard pink stuff/beers (over a 6 hour period) we were both ready to snooze in front of the cricket world cup final. As India were in the final we watched it on a big projector screen at the hotel with about 200 very drunk Indian men and 'WOW-EE' they love a dance. We barely saw any of the cricket as with every run scored (not just boundaries) the crowd turned into a throng of gyrating men dancing to some rather suspect Indian house music. Quite bizarre but equally entertaining.
We are very excited about discovering more of this very vast country especially my birthday holiday to the Andaman Islands. So far we have booked Kolkata, the Andamans, Darjeeling and our flight down to Bangalore. We are doing some 'fly by the seat of our pants style travelling' round Sikkim for a few days which obviously terrifies me but should be a good test drive for our 4 month jaunt around South East Asia.
unnerving. We were also free to indulge in some good old fashioned British paddling (up to the knees stuff), which may have brought out the stereotype in us. That's right people, for the first time in weeks we got to pick our own dinner and we chose Chinese food and chips! We were ashamed especially when the waitress laughed at us but the humiliation was worth it. Of course it was chips and Chinese food with an Indian twist i.e. rocket hot but oh it was worth it and will tide us over until we get to McDonalds and Pizza Hut in Kolkata (we have no shame anymore). It was also the first time in over two months that we have had alcohol. Unfortunately as a non beer drinking lady my choices it seems are restricted to either cranberry or orange bacardi breezer, but beggars
with now number 4: my name, one photo, movie? and maldives? (picture on the deck of cards). We are going to try and get some more decks for when it is very hot over the summer and they need to stay inside although we are slightly concerned we come back to find them all experts in poker and blackjack.
Right that's us. A special mention must go out to my sister Susan who timed the arrival of her emergency Haribo and Maoam sweet pack to absolute perfection. It went from 'this is a bad day' to 'We have a packet of sweet deliciousness in the form of tangfastics, anything other than that, matters not'.
Splendid. xx
You may have noticed that we have added another two photo galleries, one of our shenanigans in Vizag with all the hippy 'we're travelling' fannying around you would expect (and expect more in the coming weeks) and one with some of the kids. Clearly both have been edited to within an inch of their lives in order to make us look like better photographers but again I think that's par for the course. We had a great experience of watching the India vs Pakistan semi final cricket match with the kids. All gathered in front of an electrically suspect and definitely illegal projected screen the kids were hilarious. Whenever a boundary or a wicket went in India's favour they were torn between screaming hysterically or politely clapping. In some ways it was reminiscent of the Pimms induced genteel applause heard on the traditional village green. In other ways not so much. The match was long and many of the kids fell by the wayside (falling asleep on the ground) but those still awake at the end went nuts only to be shushed due to the late hour, so it was a slightly louder polite clapping that celebrated India's win.
The heat and humidity is rising daily but it is, so far, still about bearable. We fear that the kids might think us vampires with our pale skin (still!) as whenever we go near direct sunlight they descend into utter panic and try and drag us into the shade. No matter how much we protest their concern is such that the ability to play outside during the day is somewhat limited. As were are both absolutely rubbish at their pebble game (looks easy, actually impossible) we have introduced them to some good old fashioned classic card games snap, old maid and pairs and they have been a hit. The standard daily demands that we are met
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